Wednesday, March 2, 2011

Latex Thickness Guide

Here's a blog post Archean from Fetlife I saw this morning. Useful guidelines for latex repairing!

She talks about what thickness of latex is best for what application. It's meant as a rough guide, but since I get a lot of questions about latex gauges I thought you guys might find it helpful... This is a cross-post from the "Making latex clothing" group, but I thought you guys might also be interested in this information, since it applies to buying clothing as well as making it.
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How do you know what gauge of latex sheeting to buy, or what gauge will work for a specific garment? That's a question that, as a sheeting supplier, I'm faced with almost daily. With that in mind, I decided to compile an index of latex sheeting gauges and how they're typically used. This is just a rough guideline, not a fixed rule, but hopefully it will dispel some common misconceptions. Please note that thicker DOES NOT always mean more durable. In some cases it can mean just the opposite. Thick latex, when used for the wrong application can be overstretched, and can cause seams to burst. It's also worth noting that thinner sheeting (0.20mm-0.50mm) that's glued to very thick sheeting (1.0mm and higher) is very susceptible to tears at the seams. The reason being the difference in stretch between the thin and thick sheeting will put undue stress on the thinner stuff. I'll get into further detail about how to prevent that in a later blog post.

Before I begin - a clarification: I'm going to be talking about "form-fitting" garments as well as garments that "shape" the body. The distinction is as follows: form fitting garments, like a pair of leggings, sit flush against the skin. Garments that "shape" the body are closer to control-top pantyhose or a push-up bra. They may sit flush against the body, but they are typically a little more constrictive to tuck in a push up unsightly areas (or give you that nice bondage, "tight latex" feeling).

Very thin latex - less than 0.20mm

This gauge is great for draping or flowing garments. Capes, cowls, circle skirts all work really well in thin gauges. It's the toughest latex to work with as it curls quite severely when thinner and glue are applied and can puncture easily. Seams made out of 0.20mm latex are incredibly stretchy. This is not a good gauge for items that you want to sculpt the body and if the garment is too small it will not stay in place (i.e. a tank top that's too small will roll up instead of covering your stomach).

Thin latex - 0.33mm

This is typically the thinnest one would go for a form-fitting garment. It's got a great strength:durability ratio but will not shape the body very well. While it will work for form fitting garments, it's also got a nice flare, making it very versatile. Transparent sheeting (either natural or colored) are usually sold in this thickness as it is more transparent than thicker sheeting. Because it's easier to work with than 0.20mm latex, it's ideal for ruffles, or anything that requires both sides of the sheeting to be glued (i.e. glue front and back).

Standard latex - 0.40mm-0.50mm

This is what I recommend to beginners. It's a good all-around thickness. Easy to work with, while still being thin enough to conform comfortably to the body. This is also the gauge that I most recommend for shaping the body. It's still quite comfortable, so it's got some give (give will also mean durability because you won't be busting out of the seams!). Not great for flared items or anything that has to "flow" this gauge is best used for the skin-tight look. Contrary to popular belief, you don't need to go much thicker than this if you want a durable (but still comfortable) outfit.

Thick latex - 0.65mm-0.85mm

At this thickness, it becomes harder to make a form-fitting garment. Because there is little stretch in the latex, there will be little stretch in the garment... so if it's too tight on someone, the seam can burst. If you're getting something made from this gauge, your best bet is to either get it made to measure (if form fitting) or something a little lose (jeans, kilts, jackets). This is also a great gauge for bondage items like vacbeds, armbinders, straightjackets and muzzles.

Very thick latex - 1.0mm and higher

There is practically no stretch here, so it's unsuitable for form-fitting garments. As with the 0.65mm-0.85mm latex, too much stress on the seams will cause them to burst, so anything form fitting, should you go that route, must be carefully sized. This is corset-grade latex, so it's best used for items that need little flexibility - jackets, corsets, belts, bondage items and other structural items. Note that while some think this is the most durable latex, it's very low stretch, meaning it will not work for improperly sized items! This is a really common misconception (thicker latex = ALWAYS better). It's also not always ideal for bondage items - a vacbed with top and bottom 1.0mm latex will not stretch as much and thus won't conform to your body as well as a vacbed with a 0.65mm top.

3 comments:

Jim said...

Great info...Thanks!

sqwhirlly said...

Thanks for the info. I'm a new to the scene as far as rubber, so do you have any other tips or advise you can share with us newbies? Like the differences between neck entry suits, how hard are they to put on? I've looked for videos on doning suits but there aren't very many. Thank you again man I love the blog.

Unknown said...

Here's a vid on neck entry donning:
http://www.xtube.com/watch.php?v=vHhgj-C449-

Personally, I find the doffing to be the challenging part of the process. Shower mandatory, ensuring lots of water flowing through the arms so that they slide off as you are stretching the neck over the one of your shoulders. The first arm will come off inside out as you pull your arm through the neck in the same step as pulling the neck hole over one of your shoulders. I typically will try to have the released side of the neck hole underneath my ribcage on the one side as I'm pulling the other shoulder (and wet arm) through the other side of the neck hole. You will end up with the neck hole stretched just under your rib cage, and from that point you can pull it down the rest of your body.

For other newbie latex tips, hope this helps:
http://rubbercanuck.blogspot.com/2010/09/starting-out.html