Love Your Rubber

I know most of you are fully aware of the best ways to wear/condition/clean/store/repair your latex, but for some of you that might be looking for better ways to do things, Recon Magazine had an excellent article with some great tips.

by Benjamin Palmer, from Recon Magazine March 2008

So what is black, shiny, and often covered in cum, piss and sweat? That’s right, my rubber. Whether you wear it because you like the way it hugs your muscles, or because it’s smooth and shiny, rubber gear is very horny!

With our March 8th Full Fetish: Rubber party at the Hoist, in London, fast approaching, I thought I would get down to business about the chore that is rubber care. Most fetishists would agree; having a fetish is hard work, and latex is no
exception! Latex is high maintenance, but if it turns your crank the way it does mine, you know it is worth it! If properly cared for, latex can provide years and years of hot times.

One thing you may have noticed is that I’m using the words Latex and Rubber interchangeably. Most people do, but it should be noted that Latex and Rubber are two different things. Most gear that fetish shops stock, is actually latex, which is a natural product. Rubber is a synthetic material made from crude oil. Rubber gear is available, though it’s expensive and hard to find, but if you are one of the unfortunate people who have a latex allergy, it’s a way to still experience the horny sensations without blowing up like a blimp! Latex is shinier, and is usually thinner than rubber. Rubber generally has a matte finish, and can be made quite thick!

When you get your new gear:

Depending on how the latex is displayed, stored or shipped (if you ordered online), when you get your gear home, you might sometimes notice there are folds or dimples in the latex. These creases will ‘fall out’ over time (usually a few weeks), or much
sooner if you wear it often.

Putting it on:

There are two different ways of getting your latex on. One is Talc, and the other is Lube. You will have to figure out which works best for you. Talc should be readily available from a pharmacy, and it’s best to get the unscented kind. Baby powder is ok, but unless you want to go to the bar smelling like a freshly changed nappy, unscented talc is the best. Talc will make it easy to slide right into your gear.
There is no such thing as too much with talc, but keep in mind it will fly around everywhere, so best to talc up in the tub or somewhere easy to clean. Simply apply talc all over you, and the inside of your gear, and then slide on in! Cornstarch (or corn flour), while cheaper and more readily available should be avoided. Your sweat will dissolve it, the latex will absorb it, and it supports the growth of bacteria and fungus.

Another way to get into your gear is to use lube. Don’t ever use an oil based lube, as it will break down the composition of the rubber. Silicone lubes are a great choice, as they never go sticky (make sure to get one that says it is condom compatible, then you will know it is good with latex), but be warned that silicone
lube can accumulate in the seams, and over time break down the glues that hold it all together. A water-based lube is the best bet for the longevity of your rubber, but when it dries, it often gets sticky and tacky.

A little trick I’m a fan of, is to use J-Lube (A powder based lubricant that you mix with water, or any other liquid). I use it like talc to get into the rubber, and then when I sweat, it turns into a super-slick lube, causing me to sort of slip and slide inside your rubber, which is a very nice feeling! Now that you have your ‘dressing aid’, it is time to get the gear on. Latex gear is meant to be tight, like a second skin, so unless you are really flexible, it can sometimes be a bit of a mission to get in, so having a buddy around is definitely a bonus.

When pulling on the latex, it is best to go a little at a time. Don’t pull or tug on any single point, as this can cause stretch marks (dimples), or even tears in the latex. The best way is to put a flat hand between the latex and your skin, and ‘shimmy’ it up (or down). If the latex has been stored in a cool place (say
for example you just got a mail-order delivered in the middle of winter!), allow the latex to warm up to room temperature naturally, this will help prevent tears. Also, watch out for sharp objects, such as rings, collars, piercings, etc, as they can catch, snag or tear the rubber.

If you are having trouble getting in, you’re not using enough lube or talc!

Polishing:

Most people who wear latex gear like it to be really shiny (some people like it matte, dirty, or ‘lived in’, so this wont apply to them!), so polishing your rubber is an important step. Polishing will also prolong the life of your latex. When you first get a new piece of gear, it will need to be ‘primed’ (like putting a base coat on when painting). The best way to do that is to lay the gear flat, spray or apply your polish, and allow it to soak into the latex. Once it has soaked in, flip it over and do the other side. It will then be ready to get into, and to polish again when you are wearing it. Again, there are two common ways of polishing. One is spray
polish, and the other is liquid (wipe-on) polish. I personally recommend spray, because it is easy and clean to apply, and easy to get an even coat. Word of warning though, spray + hardwood or tile floors = dangerous!

There are many spray polishes on the market, most of them silicone spray. There is also a ‘milky’ spray available at some fetish shops that you rub in once it’s sprayed on. With silicone spray you simply spray all over and you’re ready to go.

Some people use automotive tyre/rubber polishes, and while they’re cheaper, I wouldn’t recommend them. When exposed to sunlight, they often get a white flake/cake, and once you’ve used it, you can’t use silicone polish over top, or it’ll get streaky, not to mention many of them will actually deteriorate the latex.
Another way to polish is to use a liquid silicone lube. Simply apply some to a soft tight-knit cloth (lint free!), or a sponge that is not too porous, and rub all over the clothing. If there are any streaks, don’t worry too much about it, your body heat will help to ‘melt’ and smooth it out.

Getting the perfect shine will require practice, experimenting with products and techniques. Also, the more you polish your rubber, the shinier it will get.

Taking it off:

As soon as you are done wearing your latex, it should be taken off. Taking off rubber requires just as much care as putting it on. Taking it off is when most rips and tears happen. Often, if you have sweated and then it dries, the rubber will have ‘stuck’ to your skin, and pulling it off can cause it to rip. So be careful, and go slow, rolling the latex off away from your body.

Again, having a buddy here helps.

The easiest way, and my personal favourite (mostly because it can lead up to even more dirty fun), is to take it off in the shower. After you get in from the bar, or done playing, simply hop in the shower with the gear on, making sure the water is not too hot. Allow the water to get between you and the latex, and it should just slide right off! (For those using J-Lube, be careful! Your shower will become very slippery!)

This also provides the perfect opportunity for cleaning it!

Cleaning:

After you’re done wearing your gear, it’s important to clean it right away. Sweat, smoke, alcohol, piss, cum, can all lead to the damage of your latex. Tossing it crumpled in a corner is not a good idea. The easiest way is in the shower. You can also fill up the sink or bath with a few inches or water, and dunk the gear in. You can use a bit of soap, but it is not necessary, luke-warm water alone will do the trick. If you must use soap, I recommend something that is very mild, and fragrance free, such as mild washing up liquid. Never use bleach! Simply rinse it with the water, and give it a little rub with your hand or a super soft cloth (don’t use anything abrasive, as it will leave tiny scratches in the rubber, which will damage the shine). Make sure you clean both the inside and the outside of the gear.
Once clean, pat dry with a soft, lint-free towel (don’t rub), then hang your rubber to dry (over the bath or shower is a great place). For smaller items, you can also lay it flat, preferably on a soft lint-free towel. I usually hang the gear right side out, then after a while, turn it inside out, to make sure both sides are completely dry. Don’t use any heat to dry your gear, allow it to dry naturally.
This is a good place to note that sometimes latex (most frequently in new, and especially coloured latex) can get what appears to be water spots. This happens when the gear has not been polished enough yet and thus not ‘sealed’ against water. These spots will go away once the gear has completely dried.

Some people say you can wash your gear in a washing machine. I don’t recommend it in the slightest, as even on gentle cycle; the machine can rip and tear the rubber. If you must use the washing machine (at your own risk!), be sure to put it inside of a ‘delicates’ bag, or a pillow case, and throw some towels in with it to prevent any
damage. Don’t use any detergent. I really recommend hand washing; it doesn’t take that much time, and will ensure a longer life for your gear. It should go without saying, but never ever tumble dry, dry clean or use an iron on your latex!

Storage:

Now that your gear is clean, it should be stored properly. Latex should always be stored in a cool, dry, dark place. Don’t leave it exposed to sunlight, or anywhere damp. Once it has dried completely, dust it with talk (inside and out). This will
prevent it from sticking to itself. You can either hang it in a wardrobe or closet (use a wide plastic hanger only, as thin hangers will leave dimples, or cause the rubber to stretch), and cover with a protective covering such as a black bin bag. You can also put your gear in large zip-lock bags as long as it’s stored in a bin or drawer, and away from light.

Interesting Fact:

Light coloured, and transparent latex will change colour (i.e.: get brown marks) if it comes in contact with brass, bronze and copperbased materials. This includes metal coat hangers and coins, so avoid handling them, and then latex.

Tears, Rips and Repairs:

From time to time, rips and tears, and in worst-case scenarios, ‘blowouts’ can happen. (Imagine a balloon popping… while you are wearing it) If taken care of immediately most small rips and tears can be repaired, but if left too long, they
can result in a full ‘blow-out’, which will make the gear useless. You can do simple repairs yourself using a patch and some cement (like that from a bike repair kit), but I wouldn’t recommend it. Simply return the gear to where you bought it from, and they should fix it for a small fee. It sounds like a lot of work, but through experimentation, you will find the combination of care methods that works best for you. If you follow these guidelines, you will have your gear in great shape for many years to come.

Some of my personal favorites/suggestions:

Talc: Silver Cup Premium Talc - for Billiard players. I typically buy this from our local Pool/Billiard supply store in 13 oz. bottles.

Lube: J-lube for my tightest latex, although the guys from STR have recently gotten me hooked on JO System. I find silicone lubes great for shining latex, but not so great for lubing them up.

Repairs: rubber glue I've ordered from Blackstyle is by far the best latex repair glue I've used to date (49004 Adhesive for rubbersheeting < 0,6 mm). Of course, for thicker stuff you might have to consider something more industrial. Or simply return to the manufacturer; unless you have the right equipment, they will definitely do the better repair job. Your suit costs $400 - what's another $50 to get it repaired properly?

Storage: most of my most valuable gear and catsuits I hang in a dark closet, however most of my smaller items are stored in zip bags in a box. I find most of my molded rubber items, even if talced for storage will eventually bond together and become very hard to pull apart and open. I would prefer to hang all of my items if I had the space.

Cleaning/Removal: in the shower, definitely! By far the easiest way to remove and clean your latex all in one fell swoop. If possible, this is my preferred way to remove latex each and every time.